Wednesday 4 July 2012

Waiatarau the Reflecting Waters - Freemans Bay

After recovering from a nasty cold I joined some of the North Shore Nordic Walkers on Sunday at Franklin Road, Auckland for a guided feature Nordic Walk via Ponsonby-St Marys Bay-Westhaven Loop.  The walk was organised by June Stevenson and guided by Paul Stevenson.
The Birdcage
The weather was cold as we headed along the pathway just opposite the Birdcage pub to do our warm up exercises.  The Birdcage is an iconic landmark in Auckland recently temporarily moved to make way for the building of the Victoria park tunnel and flyover.

The pub was originally named the Rob Roy after a ship with the original owner being William Reegan who was a teetotaller.
Rupa Delicatessen
The impressive building was built in 1884 at Freemans Bay when the area was industrial and where we were stood was originally the shore line. The original bay was lost due to reclamation works and was filled with debris, rubbish and night soil  from the “Destructor” which was the city rubbish incinerator in the 1870s, now better known as the Victoria Market.
This area was one of the most notorious parts of Auckland to live in as well as being home to the gasworks, an abattoir, glassworks, ironworks, shipyards and the city morgue.
Western Park
Paul made an excellent narrator as we warmed up and made our way to Western park passing the Rupa delicatessen, formally the Rupa Dairy on Wellington Street.  Originally the park would have run down to the sea but after land reclamation it’s now a fair distance from the waters edge. The Tuna Mau stream used to flow right through the park where you could once catch the most enormous Orea (eels) according to Paul.
Mosiac Ponsonby Road
The park is steep in some places so our poles came in handy as we trudged through; this park is considered to be the oldest in Auckland and dates back to the mid 19 century. The park has some interesting features and some of the furniture was designed by a local artist Matthew von Sturmer in a striking art nouveau fashion.
John Radford's Sculptures
On reaching Ponsonby Road we stopped to admire some of the sculptures designed by John Radford.  They look like the remains of demolished houses and Paul explained that these were placed as a form of protest to the demolition of some of Auckland’s historical buildings during the building boom in the 1980s.  It’s a slightly eerie sensation walking past these sculptures, almost like the ground has opened up and swallowed them leaving just the top of the building protruding from the ground.
Chapel Bar & Bistro
We clattered our way along Ponsonby Road stopping briefly at the corner of Hepburn Street and Ponsonby Road to look downhill at the views.  Continuing along Ponsonby Road we stopped at the corner of Anglesea Street and chatted about the Chapel Bar & Bistro which is a very popular place to eat.  
Ponsonby Road
This area was originally known as Dedwood and named after a Captain in the NZ Army, the name being changed to Ponsonby in 1873. This area is a very popular place to live now but in the 70s due to the clearance of slums and the motorway development the prices of rents dropped drastically and attracted low income earners. During the mid 80s the area underwent a huge urban transformation as more Pakeha moved into the area and it very soon became a middle to upper class place to live in.
Film Crew - Trivial Pursuits Kiwi TV series
We then moved off to the old Britannia Theatre or the Three Lamps as it is known now. The Britannia was built in 1910 as a roller skating rink and Paul said it was very popular. It later changed to a cinema in the 1920s before being converted into the Three Lamps shopping Plaza in 1982. Apparently in the 1800s large gas lamps would have been placed in the middle of the roads, which then would have been dirt tracks, hence the name the Three Lamps. I’ve also been told that Vogel's Bread was first baked in Ponsonby Road!
 Historic Ponsonby - Heritage Walk
Continuing along we crossed over to the Former Ponsonby Post Office at the top of St Marys Bay Road. Designed by John Campbell a government architect and built in 1911 this is a great example of Edwardian Baroque Style.
Leys Institute - Ponsonby Community Library
Walking down St Marys Bay Road we passed what was once Leys Institute (now a library) and stopped to watch a film crew, before Paul introduced us to one of the historic homes of the area and it seems part of a heritage walk.  Despite its dubious past Ponsonby is now a bustling area with some of the most expensive houses in Auckland.
Walkway Alongside the Motorway
We continued to make our way along to St Marys Bay walkway that runs adjacent to the motorway and made our way across to West Haven Marina.  We didn’t use Jacobs Ladder to the new footbridge as the panels have delayed the opening, but cheerily walked to Billfish for a coffee and quiz.  It’s a fabulous venue with outstanding views of the marina and city.

Quiz and Coffee at Billfish
After sustenance we made our way back along the marina towards the city crossing at Fanshawe Street and walked across Victoria Park. June pointed out the coloured spots on the concrete motorway posts.  These apparently were done by a Miriam van Wezel  entitled 'Colours of Our History’ it represents the change and uses of colour throughout the history of settlement in New Zealand, from ancient Maori through to modern day. These huge circles of colour painted onto the beams of the viaduct echo the shape of the concrete columns, turning from beam to beam, rising and falling, to represent the movement of the planets and tides.


New footbridge over the motoway
Victoria Park as Paul mentioned in his dialogue was literally made from a dump, he told us that much of this had to be removed as it was contaminated, and it was made clear for this new park and area.
We walked through the park passing Victoria Market and back towards Franklin Road. The Feature walk took just under two hours and to be honest I could have spent more time looking and researching the area.  This most historic place in Auckland has much more to explore and investigate.
Thanks to June and Paul for a great morning.
Information and Sources:
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10670092
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freemans_Bay
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Park,_Auckland
http://www.nzta.govt.nz/projects/victoria-park-tunnel/heritage.html
http://www.ponsonbyroad.co.nz/websites/johnradford/index.htm
http://www.aucklandcity.govt.nz/whatson/places/parks/westernpark.asp
http://www.bossleyarchitects.co.nz/blog/?tag=/Miriam+Van+Wezel
http://www.bossleyarchitects.co.nz/blog/?tag=/Miriam+Van+Wezel
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_history_of_Ponsonby,_Three_Lamps_and_Freemans_Bay

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